![]() Remove the plants and cultivate the soil to destroy the pests. Corn seed maggots have probably been feeding on your green beans. Bury the collars three inches deep in the soil.ĭeformed seedlings that lack leaves. Place cardboard collars around young seedlings as soon as they emerge from the soil. Till the soil to destroy them and remove any garden debris and weeds, which provides shelter for the pests. Cutworms have been at work in your garden. If the stems seem as if they were cut off, it’s probably because they were. The seedlings might eventually start growing, but you’re probably better off taking them out and replanting them in warm soil. Again, this is caused by cold temperatures. Young seedlings are stunted and don’t recover. Remove the plants and try again in a few weeks when the soil is warmer. This condition is known as damping off and is caused by high humidity levels and cold, damp soils. Young seedlings have dark, water-stained spots on their leaves or collapse. ![]() Doing so often cracks the seeds and damages them so they rot. Bean seeds do have a hard seed coat, but they don’t need to be soaked. Forget the old-time advice of soaking bean seeds before planting them. Water the soil frequently so it stays moist but not soggy one inch beneath the surface. For fall plantings, you can plant them up to two inches deep, especially if your soil is dry. If you have a short growing season, try building raised beds, which warms the soil earlier in the spring so you can plant sooner. Plant them no more than one inch deep in the spring. Avoid planting them too deeply, especially in the spring when the soil is still cold. Wait to plant them until daytime air temperatures are at least 70 degrees. Beans are warm-season crops, and they don’t like cold, wet soil. Below, you’ll find information on the most common bean problems and how to avoid or fix them. On the odd occasion, though, I’ve experienced problems with growth, disease, and pests. Most years, I’ve had no trouble with growing beans. They produce a big yield within a few weeks, making them ideal if your only goal is to harvest beans for processing. (And my kids like to hide among the trellises.) Bush beans are a bit like determinate tomatoes. I’ve tried both, but I prefer pole beans because they produce a greater overall yield for a longer period of time. When it comes to green beans, you can opt for pole beans, which grow on trellises, fences, or poles or bush beans, which are compact varieties that require no support. ![]() They produce a fine crop within sixty days, making them faster than many vegetable crops, and the beans can be eaten fresh, frozen, or canned. ![]() Green beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are among the most common vegetables people grow in the home garden. ![]()
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